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Mortgage lenders have acknowledged the problem by creating new and innovative mortgage products, mostly designed to lower the borrowers’ payments in the first few years of the mortgage. Many of these products allow borrowers to buy homes that they traditionally couldn’t afford, but they aren’t without risk.

The latest and most exotic mortgages out there include:

1. The 40-Year Mortgage
2. The Portable Mortgage
3. The Interest-Only Mortgage
4. The Negative Amortization Mortgage
5. The Flex-ARM Mortgage
6. The Piggy Back Mortgage
7. 103s and 107s
8. Home Equity Line of Credit
9. Loan Modification Mortgage
10. Short-Term Hybrids

1. The 40-Year Mortgage

This is similar to a 30-year fixed rate mortgage, except the payment is being stretched over an extra 10 years. The lender will charge a slightly higher interest rate, as much as half a percentage point.

A 40-year mortgage gives you lower monthly payments than a 30-year loan, while allowing you to lock in today’s interest rate. If you buy a $300,000 mortgage at a 6.25% interest rate, you could be saving $95 each month in payment.

But by extending the length of the mortgage, you are increasing the amount of interest paid on the loan. For a $300,000 mortgage, a home buyer will spend an additional $170,030 in interest with a 40-year mortgage.

These mortgages are best suited for first-time home owners who don’t plan to live in the home for more than a few years. If they can’t afford the higher payment of a 30-year mortgage, the 40-year may give a good start to home ownership.

2. The Portable Mortgage

E*Trade has a program called Mortgage on the Move. It allows a home buyer to lock in a low interest rate and then take the rate with them to their next home in a few years. A second mortgage can be used if the buyer needs to borrow more money for the new home.

When interest rates are low – and looking to rise – locking in a rate for the next 30 years is attractive.

But interest rates for portable and second mortgages are higher than for standard loans. You may be looking at paying ½ to ¾ a percentage point more than on a typical 30-year fixed-rate mortgage.

This product is good for those who know they will move in a few years, but still want to lock in a low rate.

3. The Interest-Only Mortgage

With an interest-only mortgage, the lender allows the borrower to pay only the interest for the first so many years of a mortgage. After the grace period, the loan essentially becomes a new mortgage with the interest and principal being stretched only the remaining years. For example, you may pay no principal for the first ten years, and then pay the principal and interest for 20 years.

This gives you a smaller monthly payment during the interest-only repayment period, and during this time, all the money being paid is tax deductible.

But if home prices don’t rise, your equity won’t build during the interest-only years. When your principal-payment period begins, the monthly payments will jump significantly. Most of these loans feature variable interest rate, which puts you at risk for even higher monthly obligations.

This type of mortgage is great if you know for sure that your income will rise significantly in the next few years. Interest-only loans are also a good fit for professionals who receive large bonuses as part of their pay. They can pay interest during most of the year and then put the bonus towards the principal.

4. The Negative Amortization Mortgage

This interest-only type of mortgage allows a buyer to pay less than the full amount of interest. The difference between the full interest payment and the amount actually paid is added to the balance of the loan.

This gives you the option of a much smaller monthly payment during the first years of a loan.

But, this is probably the most risky mortgage available. If the value of your home falls, you will easily be upside down in your load. You would owe more money on the house than it is worth.

These loans are great for those with large cash reserves who need to make lower payments during certain parts of the year, but can pay off the difference in large chunks at other times.

5. The Flex-ARM Mortgage

This is a cross between a hybrid ARM, which offers a low fixed interest rate for the first five to seven years and then adjusts annually, and a negative amortization loan. Each month you receive a coupon that gives you four possible payment options: negative amortization, interest-only payment, 30-year fixed and 20-year fixed. The homeowner decides how much he wants to pay.

The bank handles all of the calculations for you. But if not used wisely, you could owe more on your mortgage than your home is worth.

A Flex-ARM is good for those who prefer to have options. The borrower should have large cash reserves for when the mortgage payments enter the later part of the loan. Like interest-only loans, they are great for those who receive bonuses during the year.

6. The Piggy-back Mortgage

This is actually two mortgages, one on top of the other. The first mortgage covers 80% of the property’s value. The second covers the remaining balance at a slightly higher interest rate.

In most cases, borrowers choose a piggy-back mortgage because it allows them to put less than 20% down and still avoid paying private mortgage insurance. The money that would be used towards private mortgage insurance is now tax deductible as interest paid.

Homeowners should expect to pay a higher interest rate on a second mortgage. The rates you pay vary greatly depending on your credit score. Since the borrower has very little equity in the home, there is the fear of the home losing value and the borrower owing more than they can sell it for.

Piggy-back mortgages are a good fit for young professionals with reasonably high salaries, but no savings.

7. 103s and 107s

You may not need to save for a down payment at all. You could borrow 3% or 7% more than your home is even worth.

These loans give you the option of borrowing money needed for closing costs and moving costs. You can include it all in the mortgage.

The interest rates for these mortgages are high. You run the risk of negative equity if your home loses value.

If you have large cash reserves that work better for you in the stock market than in investing in your home, you may want to look at this type of mortgage.

8. Home Equity Line of Credit

These aren’t just for those who own a home! They are commonly known as HELOCs, and they can finance an original home purchase using a credit line instead of a traditional mortgage. HELOCs are variable-rate mortgages tied to the prime rate. If you use this mortgage as your first mortgage, all of the interest is tax deductible. You simply make a down payment, and the HELOC pays the remainder. You can usually use one for up to 90% of the home’s appraisal value. For a higher interest rate, you may qualify for 100%.

HELOCs can offer more attractive interest rates. You can also use the equity you build in your home at any time.

HELOCs are usually structured for 10 to 20 years, instead of 30. The interest rate is variable, which means that your payment can rise at any time.

If you want to pay off your home quickly, but need the ability to access your equity at any time, you might consider a HELOC as your primary mortgage.

9. Loan Modification Mortgage

This mortgage allows you to change your terms whenever you want, all you have to pay is a $1,000 closing cost for every million dollars borrowed. No paperwork is necessary; all you have to do is make a phone call.

You can expect to pay about 3/8th of a percentage point higher interest rate.

People who like to follow interest rates can call and have their rate changed when interest rates are down. But borrower’s must take into consideration the closing fees charged each time they modify their mortgage. Many customers with this type of mortgage have financial planners who manage the mortgage.

10. Short-Term Hybrids

These mortgages are much like traditional hybrid ARMs with fixed-rate periods and then interest rate that floats. But the fixed portion on a short-term hybrid is for a very limited time, for example, six months to a year. Lenders offer very competitive rates on these mortgages.

The interest rates are very low for the fixed portion of the loan, making the initial monthly payments relatively small.

But six months or a year is not a very long period of time, but rates can change dramatically in just that amount of time.

People who plan to flip a house or move in a very short period of time are good candidates for a short-term hybrid ARM.

The purposes of cultivation are three to get rid of weeds, and to stimulate growth by (1) letting air into the soil and freeing unavailable plant food, and (2) by conserving moisture.

As to weeds, the gardener of any experience need not be told the importance of keeping his crops clean. He has learned from bitter and costly experience the price of letting them get anything resembling a start. He knows that one or two days’ growth, after they are well up, followed perhaps by a day or so of rain, may easily double or treble the work of cleaning a patch of onions or carrots, and that where weeds have attained any size they cannot be taken out of sowed crops without doing a great deal of injury. He also realizes, or should, that every day’s growth means just so much available plant food stolen from under the very roots of his legitimate crops.

Instead of letting the weeds get away with any plant food, he should be furnishing more, for clean and frequent cultivation will not only break the soil up mechanically, but let in air, moisture and heat all essential in effecting those chemical changes necessary to convert non- available into available plant food. Long before the science in the case was discovered, the soil cultivators had learned by observation the necessity of keeping the soil nicely loosened about their growing crops. Even the lanky and untutored aborigine saw to it that his squaw not only put a bad fish under the hill of maize but plied her shell hoe over it. Plants need to breathe. Their roots need air. You might as well expect to find the rosy glow of happiness on the wan cheeks of a cotton-mill child slave as to expect to see the luxuriant dark green of healthy plant life in a suffocated garden.

Important as the question of air is, that of  water  ranks beside it. You may not see at first what the matter of frequent cultivation has to do with water. But let us stop a moment and look into it. Take a strip of blotting paper, dip one end in water, and watch the moisture run up hill, soak up through the blotter. The scientists have labeled that “capillary attraction” the water crawls up little invisible tubes formed by the texture of the blotter. Now take a similar piece, cut it across, hold the two cut edges firmly together, and try it again. The moisture refuses to cross the line: the connection has been severed.

In the same way the water stored in the soil after a rain begins at once to escape again into the atmosphere. That on the surface evaporates first, and that which has soaked in begins to soak in through the soil to the surface. It is leaving your garden, through the millions of soil tubes, just as surely as if you had a two-inch pipe and a gasoline engine, pumping it into the gutter night and day! Save your garden by stopping the waste. It is the easiest thing in the world to do cut the pipe in two. By frequent cultivation of the surface soil not more than one or two inches deep for most small vegetables the soil tubes are kept broken, and a mulch of dust is maintained. Try to get over every part of your garden, especially where it is not shaded, once in every ten days or two weeks. Does that seem like too much work? You can push your wheel hoe through, and thus keep the dust mulch as a constant protection, as fast as you can walk. If you wait for the weeds, you will nearly have to crawl through, doing more or less harm by disturbing your growing plants, losing all the plant food (and they will take the cream) which they have consumed, and actually putting in more hours of infinitely more disagreeable work. If the beginner at gardening has not been convinced by the facts given, there is only one thing left to convince him experience.

Having given so much space to the  reason  for constant care in this matter, the question of methods naturally follows. Get a wheel hoe. The simplest sorts will not only save you an infinite amount of time and work, but do the work better, very much better than it can be done by hand. You  can  grow good vegetables, especially if your garden is a very small one, without one of these labor-savers, but I can assure you that you will never regret the small investment necessary to procure it.

With a wheel hoe, the work of preserving the soil mulch becomes very simple. If one has not a wheel hoe, for small areas very rapid work can be done with the scuffle hoe.

The matter of keeping weeds cleaned out of the rows and between the plants in the rows is not so quickly accomplished. Where hand-work is necessary, let it be done at once. Here are a few practical suggestions that will reduce this work to a minimum, (1) Get at this work while the ground is soft; as soon as the soil begins to dry out after a rain is the best time. Under such conditions the weeds will pull out by the roots, without breaking off. (2) Immediately before weeding, go over the rows with a wheel hoe, cutting shallow, but just as close as possible, leaving a narrow, plainly visible strip which must be hand- weeded. The best tool for this purpose is the double wheel hoe with disc attachment, or hoes for large plants. (3) See to it that not only the weeds are pulled but that  every inch  of soil surface is broken up. It is fully as important that the weeds just sprouting be destroyed, as that the larger ones be pulled up. One stroke of the weeder or the fingers will destroy a hundred weed seedlings in less time than one weed can be pulled out after it gets a good start. (4) Use one of the small hand-weeders until you become skilled with it. Not only may more work be done but the fingers will be saved unnecessary wear.

The skilful use of the wheel hoe can be acquired through practice only. The first thing to learn is that it is necessary to watch  the wheels only:  the blades, disc or rakes will take care of themselves.

The operation of “hilling” consists in drawing up the soil about the stems of growing plants, usually at the time of second or third hoeing. It used to be the practice to hill everything that could be hilled “up to the eyebrows,” but it has gradually been discarded for what is termed “level culture”; and you will readily see the reason, from what has been said about the escape of moisture from the surface of the soil; for of course the two upper sides of the hill, which may be represented by an equilateral triangle with one side horizontal, give more exposed surface than the level surface represented by the base. In wet soils or seasons hilling may be advisable, but very seldom otherwise. It has the additional disadvantage of making it difficult to maintain the soil mulch which is so desirable.

Rotation of crops.
——————

There is another thing to be considered in making each vegetable do its best, and that is crop rotation, or the following of any vegetable with a different sort at the next planting.

With some vegetables, such as cabbage, this is almost imperative, and practically all are helped by it. Even onions, which are popularly supposed to be the proving exception to the rule, are healthier, and do as well after some other crop,  provided  the soil is as finely pulverized and rich as a previous crop of onions would leave it.

Here are the fundamental rules of crop rotation:

(1) Crops of the same vegetable, or vegetables of the same family (such as turnips and cabbage) should not follow each other.

(2) Vegetables that feed near the surface, like corn, should follow deep-rooting crops.

(3) Vines or leaf crops should follow root crops.

(4) Quick-growing crops should follow those occupying the land all season.

These are the principles which should determine the rotations to be followed in individual cases. The proper way to attend to this matter is when making the planting plan. You will then have time to do it properly, and will need to give it no further thought for a year.

With the above suggestions in mind, and  put to use , it will not be difficult to give the crops those special attentions which are needed to make them do their very best.

With this fact in mind we will not feel restricted to any part of the premises merely because it is out of sight behind the barn or garage. In the average moderate-sized place there will not be much choice as to land. It will be necessary to take what is to be had and then do the very best that can be done with it. But there will probably be a good deal of choice as to, first, exposure, and second, convenience. Other things being equal, select a spot near at hand, easy of access. It may seem that a difference of only a few hundred yards will mean nothing, but if one is depending largely upon spare moments for working in and for watching the garden and in the growing of many vegetables the latter is almost as important as the former this matter of convenient access will be of much greater importance than is likely to be at first recognized. Not until you have had to make a dozen time-wasting trips for forgotten seeds or tools, or gotten your feet soaking wet by going out through the dew-drenched grass, will you realize fully what this may mean.

Exposure.
———

But the thing of first importance to consider in picking out the spot that is to yield you happiness and delicious vegetables all summer, or even for many years, is the exposure. Pick out the “earliest” spot you can find a plot sloping a little to the south or east, that seems to catch sunshine early and hold it late, and that seems to be out of the direct path of the chilling north and northeast winds. If a building, or even an old fence, protects it from this direction, your garden will be helped along wonderfully, for an early start is a great big factor toward success. If it is not already protected, a board fence, or a hedge of some low-growing shrubs or young evergreens, will add very greatly to its usefulness. The importance of having such a protection or shelter is altogether underestimated by the amateur.

The soil.
———

The chances are that you will not find a spot of ideal garden soil ready for use anywhere upon your place. But all except the very worst of soils can be brought up to a very high degree of productiveness  especially such small areas as home vegetable gardens require. Large tracts of soil that are almost pure sand, and others so heavy and mucky that for centuries they lay uncultivated, have frequently been brought, in the course of only a few years, to where they yield annually tremendous crops on a commercial basis. So do not be discouraged about your soil. Proper treatment of it is much more important, and a garden- patch of average run-down, or “never-brought-up” soil will produce much more for the energetic and careful gardener than the richest spot will grow under average methods of cultivation.

The ideal garden soil is a “rich, sandy loam.” And the fact cannot be overemphasized that such soils usually are made, not found. Let us analyze that description a bit, for right here we come to the first of the four all-important factors of gardening food. The others are cultivation, moisture and temperature. “Rich” in the gardener’s vocabulary means full of plant food; more than that and this is a point of vital importance it means full of plant food ready to be used at once, all prepared and spread out on the garden table, or rather in it, where growing things can at once make use of it; or what we term, in one word, “available” plant food. Practically no soils in long- inhabited communities remain naturally rich enough to produce big crops. They are made rich, or kept rich, in two ways; first, by cultivation, which helps to change the raw plant food stored in the soil into available forms; and second, by manuring or adding plant food to the soil from outside sources.

“Sandy” in the sense here used, means a soil containing enough particles of sand so that water will pass through it without leaving it pasty and sticky a few days after a rain; “light” enough, as it is called, so that a handful, under ordinary conditions, will crumble and fall apart readily after being pressed in the hand. It is not necessary that the soil be sandy in appearance, but it should be friable.

“Loam: a rich, friable soil,” says Webster. That hardly covers it, but it does describe it. It is soil in which the sand and clay are in proper proportions, so that neither greatly predominate, and usually dark in color, from cultivation and enrichment. Such a soil, even to the untrained eye, just naturally looks as if it would grow things. It is remarkable how quickly the whole physical appearance of a piece of well cultivated ground will change. An instance came under my notice last fall in one of my fields, where a strip containing an acre had been two years in onions, and a little piece jutting off from the middle of this had been prepared for them just one season. The rest had not received any extra manuring or cultivation. When the field was plowed up in the fall, all three sections were as distinctly noticeable as though separated by a fence. And I know that next spring’s crop of rye, before it is plowed under, will show the lines of demarcation just as plainly.